At Yondu Culinary Studio in Lower Manhattan, chef Jaume Biarnés shows how to extract deep, savory flavor from a handful of vegetables.
He believes that the centuries-old Korean fermentation technique holds part of the answer to one of the most pressing questions of our time: how to feed a growing global population without depleting the planet.
“Korea consumes the largest amount of vegetables in the world, and that’s because they use fermentation to make vegetables taste delicious,” he says. “If we want people to eat more vegetables and eat more sustainably, it has to be done through pleasure and fun. »
Go green without going bankrupt
For Mr Biarnés, who worked at the legendary El Bulli in Spain – voted the best restaurant in the world five times – sustainability is not a trend but a fundamental part of being a chef and running a kitchen.
In a sector where costs are high and margins tight, any “green” initiative must make economic sense. “Sustainability means being able to guarantee resources for the future so that we can continue to operate,” explains Biarnés. “At a restaurant level, it means being economically sustainable. On a global level, as a species, it means the same thing.”
Still, he insists that restaurants that weren’t built with sustainability in mind can do so if they take it step by step.
Controlling food waste, he notes, is already integrated into sound kitchen management. The most difficult challenge lies in sourcing local produce: busy chefs often don’t have time to seek out regional suppliers and dominant food distribution networks don’t prioritize proximity.
“This is what we need to fix to make it easier for chefs to access local produce and at a more competitive price.”
Politics also has a role to play. He cites Europe, where many single-use items are banned or restricted, contrasting with the situation in the United States, where disposable plates and cups remain ubiquitous. “Policymakers must help companies move away from disposable materials,” he emphasizes.
The modern relevance of an ancient technique
At Yondu Culinary Studio, where Mr. Biarnés is director, the focus is on fermenting Korean vegetables — a practice that predates refrigeration but remains surprisingly relevant in the age of climate-conscious cuisine.
“Fermentation is a traditional technique for preserving products,” he explains. “Pickles, sauerkraut, cheese, beer…we have fermentation all over the world. It’s used as a method of preserving foods as well as a flavor-enhancing technique.”
A market in Boulder, Colorado, United States.
By extending shelf life, fermentation reduces waste. By intensifying taste, it makes plant-rich diets more appealing, a double benefit in a world where switching to vegetables is one of the most impactful dietary changes individuals can make for the planet.
Love and sharing
A native of Catalonia, a champion of Korean culinary traditions in New York, Mr. Biarnés embodies the cross-cultural flow that defines contemporary gastronomy.
“We live in an age where ideas travel very quickly, sometimes faster than ingredients,” he observes. “Chances are you’ll see a recipe on TikTok or Instagram before you can find the ingredients.”
“A kitchen and a table are the way to understand each other,” he says. “There is no better way to transmit your own culture and love for your country than to share your dishes, your ingredients with other people.”
For those looking to apply these principles in their own cooking, Mr. Biarnés offers simple advice, echoing American author Michael Pollan: “Eat food, not too much, and mostly vegetables.” »
Practical tips for your kitchen:
- Buy ingredients, not processed foods. Fresh ingredients tend to be more local, tastier and have a lower carbon footprint.
- Check the origin. If a product comes from the other side of the world, it’s probably neither sustainable nor at its best flavor.
- Embrace seasonality. “Who wants to eat peaches in winter? They have no taste,” he says. Visiting a local farmers’ market reveals what’s ripe and ready.
- Plan to avoid waste. Know what you’re going to cook before you go shopping, buy only what you need for the next few days, and use your freezer to prepare your meals.
Above all, Biarnés advises, enjoy the process. “The most important thing is the fun factor,” he says. “Vegetables are good for your health because they give pleasure. Vitamins and fiber come later.”
Sustainable Gastronomy Day is celebrated on June 18 each year to recognize gastronomy as a cultural expression linked to the natural and cultural diversity of the world.
