In early June, the French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier and Muizzuddinn of Pakistan were the pioneer of a new road in the East ridge of Spantik (7,027 m), known locally under the name of Golden Peak, in the Karakoram chain.
The ascent, which took place from June 2 to 7, was the first major mountain opening in Pakistan led by a local climber. The new 1,800 m route, nicknamed “Zindabad (Long Live)”, is noted M5 A1 to a slope of 80 °. It should be one of the most notable climbs this summer in the country.
The duo spent 20 days acclimatizing to the base camp, waiting for 10 days of bad weather before establishing higher camps at 5,200 m and 5,800 m. Despite the risk, they took advantage of a meteorological opening, durable fresh snow and unstable tiles over five days. Just shy meters from the summit, they abandoned due to a dangerous slab of wind, but celebrated the completion of the route as a symbol of national pride.
Their descent lasted 36 hours by normal road, with a final bivouac at 5,800 m. For Muizz, this achievement is the first phase of a broader objective: to become the first UIAGM certified mountain guide in Pakistan.
Muizz plans to start his training in France this summer. In the event of success, it will become certified by 2029 and aims to revive national guide programs and training schools in Pakistan.
Spantik has a respected history of technical climbs, in particular the French and Allovena ascent of 2000 of its “gold pillar” from the North face. Maynadier, already a defender of Pakistani mountaineering, made several first climbs and skiing of skiing in the region.
